Monday photo: San Clemente Beach on a Sunday Afternoon

Just a quick post. Yesterday, we went for a short hike through the hills above San Clemente and then looped back home along the beach. A beautiful and relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

View overlooking the northern end of San Clemente

View overlooking the northern end of San Clemente

 

During the week, the beaches here in San Clemente are typically empty with only a handful of people walking or playing in the water in addition to the occasional group of fishermen bringing in their catch. The beaches on weekends, while rarely ever crowded except for major holidays, are nevertheless full of activity. Families visit the beach from nearby inland towns and spend the day together jumping in the waves, making sand castles, and playing the requisite game of soccer.

Our dog Coco with the view of Punta Bikini

Our beach bum canine Coco with a spectacular view of Punta Bikini as the backdrop on a “busy” Sunday afternoon. On the right, fishermen and locals crowd about a fishing boat to inspect the catch.

 

Tom

Tom with more of our crew

 

Annual Mango Festival

Yesterday was the city of Portoviejo’s 5th annual mango festival. The festival was hosted by the Universidad Técnica de Manabí, at the jardín botánico (botanical gardens), a beautiful and enjoyable place to visit in its own right.

Mango Festival poster

Poster for the Mango Festival, held at the botanical gardens in Portoviejo

 

The gardens, created in 1993, boast 10 hectares of tropical flora to explore and even includes a surprisingly challenging maze formed from tall hibiscus hedges. Other features include a nursery with plants for sale, food pavilion, open park area (see photo below) and a host of natural fauna that call the gardens and the surrounding 35 hectares of hillside reserve their home, including large iguanas, turtles, and many tropical birds (mot-mots, oropendula, and parrotlets to name just a few).

View towards the stage and food vendors

 

We are pretty serious about mangoes in our household, often consuming multiple mangoes in a single sitting, especially during mango season (Nov-Feb). During this season, mangoes are ridiculously plentiful and very inexpensive. Tom recently purchased a giant bag of  big, juicy mangoes for $15. The price per mango came to roughly $12 cents each. So far we’ve eaten about half of them, chopped and froze another quarter (mango smoothies, mango daiquiris!) and we still have so many left!

Remaining mangos

The remains of our disappearing bag of mangoes

 

We’ve even gone so far as to request a custom mango painting for our kitchen from our artist friend Kerri (the same artist who created our beautiful ceibo painting that we featured on our ceibo blog post).

mangoes

Mango painting made locally by our friend Kerri (feel free to contact us if you’d like to get in touch with the artist to see more of her artwork for sale)

 

So with this background it comes as no surprise to find our crew at the mango festival. There we enjoyed mango cupcakes, a meal of grilled chicken smothered in a mango sauce, and even sipped on a couple of mango mojitos.

Mango cupcakes and ice cream

Mango cupcakes and ice cream

 

There are a surprising variety of mangoes grown in Ecuador. At one booth they had 16 different kinds on display. Our favorite mango thus far is the “Reina” mango, a giant yellow-skinned mango that is pure juicy pulp with no stringy fibers that get stuck in between your teeth.

Many types of mangoes are grown in Ecuador

Many varieties of mangoes are grown in Ecuador

 

The festival also had the requisite, WAY-too-loud music which may be found at any public event in Ecuador but we actually enjoyed the live music and dance performances. There were also locally made goods for  sale, products for which the province of Manabí are known, such as hand-woven straw hats and bags,

Hats woven from straw

Hats and headbands woven from paja toquilla straw and banana leaves

 

tagua jewelry and bamboo knick knacks,

Hand crafted products made from bamboo and tagua

Hand crafted products made from bamboo and tagua

 

Plus fruits jams, chocolates, and assortments of ají (hot sauces) flavored with mango and other fruits.

Assortment of products from Manabi

Assortment of products from Manabi

 

While Kai got his face painted, adoring women took turns cuddling and taking photographs of Aiden.

babies

Aiden being treated like a local celebrity

 

Bellies full of mangoes we ventured back home to San Clemente and spent the remainder of our Sunday afternoon playing with on the beach…after which we came back in and somehow managed to eat MORE mango!

 

Fried Green Bananas

Trucks regularly rumble through town, laden with giant green bananas. Usually there are a couple of guys perched at the very top of the heap calling out, “Verde, Verde!

plantains are often sold from the back of trucks

Plantains are often sold from the back of trucks (photo credit)

 

For a dollar you get about 10 or more of these green plantains or plátanos verdes. While  I quickly got used to seeing plantains for sale everywhere,  it took me a while to appreciate the extent to which they are a part of the local diet and even longer to learn how to cook with them myself.

boys selling plantains

 

Plantains are eaten more like a potato than their sweet counterpart, the banana. They are hard, starchy and require cooking before being eaten. When ripe, they yellow, become slightly sweet and are called maduros (“matures”).

Typical coastal Ecuadorian foods using plantain include empanadas, corviche, bolones de verde, bolones de maduro con queso, patacones, chifles, maduros con queso, maduros asados con sal prieta, torta de plátano, gato encerrado, and the list goes on and on.

PATACONES: smashed and fried green plantains that are typically served in seafood dishes

PATACONES: smashed and fried green plantains that are typically served in seafood dishes (photo credit and recipe)

 

Today, I’ll showcase the simple process of making empanadas de verde using photos I snapped while learning how to make them from some friends the other day.

 

Step 1: Boil green plantains in salted water for 30 min until soft

boiling plantains to make empanadas

Each plantain yields roughly two empanadas

 

Step 2: Mash and roll out the plantain “dough”

mashing the cooked plantain to make dough

Once mashed,  the plantain dough was balled into a log from which they cut off pieces to roll out.

The 1/2 inch PVC pipe make a surprisingly effective rolling pin!

The 1/2 inch PVC pipe makes for a surprisingly effective rolling pin!

 

Step 3: Cut out a circle and add your filling 

Using a small bowl to cut the dough into a circle

Using a small bowl to cut the dough into a circle

(shredded cheese or make a mixture of shredded chicken with mashed plantain)

Two filling options: shredded cheese (right) or a delicious mixture of shredded chicken with mashed plantain (center)

 

Step 4: Fold your circle in half and crimp the edges with a fork

Using a fork to close up the empanada

Using a fork to close up the empanada

 

Step 5: Fry ’em up

Fry until golden brown

Fry on each side until golden brown

 

Step 6: Enjoy with some fresh a (pronounced “Ah-HEE”, a hot sauce usually made with pickled veggies) and a cup of coffee.

Many lovely cooks in the kitchen (plus a hungry Batman)

Many lovely cooks in the kitchen (plus a hungry Batman)

 

Ecuador Elections

February 23rd is election day throughout the country (referred to as “Elecciones Seccionales“).

Each of Ecuador’s 24 provinces will hold elections for the following political positions:

  • provincial governors and vice-governors (“prefectos y vice-prefectos”), 
  • mayors (“alcaldes”), 
  • aldermen (“consejales“), and
  • parish boards (“juntas parroquiales“). 

 

All are elected for 4-year terms without term restrictions.

Ecuador, with a geographic area equivalent to the US state of Colorado, has 24 provinces.

 

Each province is comprised of cantones (cantons) which are further subdivided into parroquias (parishes) that are classified as either urban or rural.

In our case, we live in the town of San Clemente, which is affiliated with the rural parish of Charapotó, located in the Cantón of Sucre, in the Province of Manabí. The county seat of Sucre is the city of Bahia de Caráquez. The provincial capital of Manabí is the city of Portoviejo.

The coastal province of Manabi is subdivided into 22 cantons.

 

In Manabí, there are nine candidates running for prefect (and thus nine political parties represented). The current prefect, Mariano Zambrano has been in office since 2005 and is up for re-election. In our canton of Sucre, there are six mayoral candidates, two of which are female.

Here is the breakdown for the number of candidates elected for each political position in the Province of Manabí:

  • 1 Prefect
  • 1 Vice-Prefect
  • 22 Mayors (1 per canton)
  • 100 Aldermen (urban)
  • 36 Aldermen (rural)
  • 53 Parish board presidents
  • 265 Parish board members

 

There are a LOT of political parties. There are 11 parties with seats in Parliament and 24 non-parliamentary parties. Each political party has a number and color scheme associated with it. For example, President Correa is affiliated with the Alianza PAIS party, with number 35 and its colors are lime green and dark blue.

The name, number and color scheme for President Correa´s political party.

 

Political campaigning is restricted to a total of 6 weeks (January 7- February 20) and consists of an onslaught of tv and radio commercials, posters and flags on vehicles, homes, and businesses, parades of honking vehicles with blaring music, as well as wide scale painting of public and private walls with candidates’ names and their party numbers. 

Walls are a primary way of political campaigning in Ecuador. This wall is located in San Clemente.

 

Voting is mandatory for Ecuadorian citizens between the ages of 18 and 65 residing in country. There is a monetary fine for not voting equivalent to 10% of the monthly minimum wage. After placing your vote you receive a “certificado de votación” or voting voucher that you are required to present for most kinds of applications such as opening a bank account, applying for marriage, etc.

Voting is optional for those aged 16 to 18 and over 65, for those serving in active military duty, for illiterate or disabled citizens, and for foreigners with legal residency.

Election results for the prefect and mayoral candidates will be determined the day of the election.

Also noteworthy is the fact that the sale and consumption of alcohol is prohibited 36 hours before the elections and 12 hours afterwards (starting at midnight on Feb 21 and ending at midnight on Feb 24). This law is called the “Ley Seca” or the Dry Law and is a real bummer to unsuspecting tourists and expats! …Sorry, Tom, guess we´ll be celebrating your birthday (Feb 22) this year at home! 

Ceibos and Palo Santo: Magical Trees of Coastal Ecuador

Without questuion, my favorite trees here on the coast are ceibos and palosanto. We’ll start this post with the ceibos since they are such a conspicuous tree and usually lead newcomers to ask, “What are THOSE??”

The province of Manabi is known for their ceibo trees

 

Ceibo trees (pronounced “SAY-bo”) are a striking feature of the coastal Ecuadorian landscape. Straight from a Tim Burton film or a page out of Dr. Seuss, these large trees feature bright green bulbous trunks, prominent buttresses and a disarray of heavy limbs extending in all directions.

Ceibo located on the hillside overlooking San Clemente

Ceibo trees have leaves only during the rainy season (or if they’re located in a well-irrigated piece of farmland)

 

Ecuadorian ceibos (Ceiba trichistandra) are one of 10 species of tropical and neotropical trees classified as ceibas or kapoks. Kapok is the universal name given to the silky fluff  produced by the ceibo fruits.

Ceibo tree full of kapok (from Gary Scott’s website)

 

Historically, the super soft kapok fibers were collected and used to fill pillows, mattresses, stuffed dolls, etc. In addition, the waxy coating found on the fibers make the fluff resistant to water and highly buoyant; thus, kapok was used worldwide until the mid 1900s in life preservers, life vests and seat cushions. Today, there are still a couple of small communities in Manabi that collect the cotton to make pillows and mattresses for sale.

Kapok cotton (taken from a site with other interesting ceibo information and photos)

 

Here in the dry coastal forests, ceibos spend much of the year without any leaves, a condition called drought-deciduousness.  They have adapted to this stress in a colorful way by photosynthesizing through its trunk (hence the trunk’s bright green pigments).

Shrek-green colored trunk of a giant ceibo

 

The wood of the ceibo is soft, light and brittle and therefore not useful for construction, making furniture, etc.  Tom and I often mused that ceibos would make an awesome tree house for when we had kids until one day we got up close to one and were surprised to find that its trunk was covered in large, intimidating spikes. This adaptation serves to protect the soft wood of young trees; as ceibos age and become less vulnerable to threats of being eaten or toppled, their bark tends to lose its thorns.

Close up of a ceibo’s spikes

 

Owing to their undeniable charisma, many artists are inspired to feature ceibos in their artwork. Below is a custom ceibo painting created for us by our artist friend Kerri who beautifully captured the vivid, whimsical nature of these magnificent trees.

Ceibo painting by Kerri of Boca Tintina (feel free to contact us if you’d like to get in touch with the artist to see more of her work for sale)

 

Palo Santo-Aromatic Gem of the Coast

Unlike ceibos, palosanto trees are all about subtlety. Their drab appearance makes them nearly impossible to distinguish from many of the other scraggly trees and bushes found in the dry coastal forests; however, what unmistakably sets them apart is their soothing, sweet, musky scent. One of my favorite olfactory pleasures is the aroma of palosanto wafting out of the hillsides after a light rain.

Palo santo trees are not beautiful to look at but possess a very pleasing, gentle aroma

 

In the same family as myrrh and frankincense, palo santo (Bursera graveolens) literally means “holy wood” and has been used by shamans since pre-Incan times for clearing negative energies and healing.

Today, locals frequently burn dry sticks of palo santo to produce a rich, aromatic smoke to keep mosquitoes away. The sticks are also used to produce a tea to help cure symptoms related to the flu and asthma.

Incense cones and burner that we purchased from the artesanal palo santo store located in Puerto Lopez

 

Use of essential oils of palo santo is becoming increasingly popular worldwide and is said to contain many healing properties to treat a plethora of maladies including arthritis, allergies, inflammation, cold and flu symptoms, depression, and anxiety to name a few. The oils are used directly on the skin in key areas (wrist, temples, soles of feet, etc.), can be diluted with other oils such as almond to produce massage oils or spritzers, and used in aromatic diffusers.

Palo santo products we’ve bought from the store in Puerto Lopez : incense cones, essential oil, and lotion

 

Palo santo trees themselves are relatively short-lived, approximately 40 years. The oils are extracted only from fallen, dead trees so it is important to buy products from sources who collect only naturally-fallen trees and who are involved in replanting efforts. Deltatau Palosanto in Puerto Lopez is one of those sources (we don’t have any affiliation with them–we just like their products).

 

Ceibos and palo santo trees represent just two of the incredible and diverse plant species found in this region. There are countless ideas for business niches left to be filled to promote greater education and appreciation of the dry coastal forest ecosystem. Examples might include leading hiking, mountain biking and birdwatching tours, the manufacture and sale of products directly using kapok fibers, or even photo-based souvenir products such as ceibo post cards and calendars, neither of which can be found here, at least to my knowledge. Like so many things in Ecuador, the possibilities are endless.

 

Enjoying local foods while supporting local folks

The small beachfront fishing towns dotting the central coast of Ecuador typically boast a strong sense of community among the local families. Often if a friend or family member is in financial need, folks will work together to host fundraising events.

Bingo is one popular way that locals raise money for cause. Tickets are sold and prizes like canned goods are donated. Another common approach is by selling food.

Today we purchased a yummy meal called a “tonga” from one of our neighbors who is raising money for her sister who has a worsening neurological disability and can’t afford the doctor’s visits.  We had placed our tonga order a few days ago and this morning a group of women worked together to prepare over a 50 of these and deliver them to different families in the neighborhood. We paid $3 per tonga.

One of our neatly wrapped tongas that we purchased as a fundraiser.

 

“Tongas” are a dish native to the province of Manabi and consist of a hearty meal of rice, chicken (or other meat) and fried sweet plantains, all smothered in a tasty peanut sauce and garnished with cilantro.

Learn to make tongas through this recipe video (audio in Spanish)

 

The contents of the tonga are wrapped into a package using large banana leaves, creating a neat, portable lunch, traditionally carried by peasants working in fields far from home. Today, tongas are almost always featured in local traditional fiestas.

Yummy, portable meal of chicken, rice, plantains covered in a peanut sauce.

 

We were told the ladies plan to continue selling different traditional foods each Sunday over the next several weeks so stay tuned to discover other local Manabita dishes.

Seasons on the Manabi coast

The province of Manabi has one of the most perfect climates that I could ever imagine. The average range of temperatures we experience here year-round are nighttime lows in the high 60s to daytime highs in the mid 80s.  The seasons are characterized not by temperature but by rainfall. The graphs below came from wunderground.com using the Manta airport as the reference site.

Average temperatures and rainfall on the Manabi coast

The results of rain on the landscape are unmistakable. Hillsides that appeared to be inhabited with only cactus and leafless shrubs and trees have become lush in a matter of days.

To provide an example, I am posting the same two images taken 22 days apart. The photos feature the location of our new development site, Casitas del Sol, here in Crucita.  The first photo was taken on January 8, 2012 before any major rainfall events. The second image I took about two hours ago. It has been raining a few times per week; it has typically been raining at night and then clearing mid-morning to yield a lovely sunny afternoon.

 

 

A bird’s eye view of Crucita

Tom's eye view: View of Crucita from his paraglider

When asked how we ended up in Cucita, Tom often tells of his experience of paraglidng along the quiet coast at sunset followed by a cold beer and tasty ceviche. We proceeded to call on many “se vende” signs and purchased our home here only a couple of days later…

The pairing of Crucita’s coastal breeze with the cliffs that line the southern end of her beach creates excellent year-round flying conditions. The skies often become filled with colorful paragliding wings on weekends and holidays. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a tandem flight or paragliding lessons to experience the incredible bird’s eye view for yourself.

Beautiful yet inexpensive beachfront lot – only $11,500!

People often ask what our least expensive beachfront land sells for. Well, the answer is $11,500.

In fact we currently have 2 adjacent beachfront lots listed at this low price. Each lot is 10 meters wide by 20 meters deep for 200 sq m or 2,152 sq ft total. These beachfront lots are located on the southern end of the quiet fishing town of San Jacinto. The lots are perfectly sized for building a small beachouse or to keep as an investment for the future. The lots back up to small a biological reserve and are about a three minute walk to the Portoviejo River.

We are asking $11,500 for each lot or $22,000 for the two together. You’re looking at a price of a little over $5 per square foot of beautiful beachfront land! Imagine finding those kinds of deals nowadays in Costa Rica or Panama!

Consider investing in Ecuador while the prices are still so low!

"Lots 10 and 11"

Learn more about these affordable properties: http://ecuadorbeachfrontproperty.com/Lots10and11.html

Something New: Ecuador Video Discount Guides!

We have put together our first Video Discount Guide package and it is ready for you to download at:

http://www.ecuadorbeachfrontproperty.com/Videos.html


Ecuador Videos

We have traveled the central coast of Ecuador (Manta to Canoa), negotiated special deals with hotels, restaurants, tour companies, shot hours of footage, and put together an essential resource guide.

We’ve condensed all this great information into one, instantly-downloadable Video Discount Guide Package so you can Get To Know Ecuador faster and more efficiently than anywhere else!

The downloadable coupons are serious:

  • $75 off a woman’s yoga and surf camp in Canoa
  • $150 off a personalized charter fishing package in Manta
  • 10-20% discounts on exclusive hotels
  • 10-20% off at excellent seafood restaurants and bars… to name just a few.

Check our webpage now to get the special $10 off intro price.

http://www.ecuadorbeachfrontproperty.com/Videos.html

Download the Intro Video: Get To Know Ecuador Video Guide

or watch it right here: