Monday photo: San Clemente Beach on a Sunday Afternoon

Just a quick post. Yesterday, we went for a short hike through the hills above San Clemente and then looped back home along the beach. A beautiful and relaxing way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

View overlooking the northern end of San Clemente

View overlooking the northern end of San Clemente

 

During the week, the beaches here in San Clemente are typically empty with only a handful of people walking or playing in the water in addition to the occasional group of fishermen bringing in their catch. The beaches on weekends, while rarely ever crowded except for major holidays, are nevertheless full of activity. Families visit the beach from nearby inland towns and spend the day together jumping in the waves, making sand castles, and playing the requisite game of soccer.

Our dog Coco with the view of Punta Bikini

Our beach bum canine Coco with a spectacular view of Punta Bikini as the backdrop on a “busy” Sunday afternoon. On the right, fishermen and locals crowd about a fishing boat to inspect the catch.

 

Tom

Tom with more of our crew

 

Last Day of “Summer”

School along Ecuador’s coast starts tomorrow (May 5) after a two month vacation which began March 1.

Interestingly, children in the Sierra, i.e. in Ecuador’s mountain region, have a different school calendar, one which more closely coincides with those in the US and elsewhere. This situation lends itself well to supporting the coastal tourism industry. Hotels, restaurants, tour operators, etc. in effect thus have two distinct “high seasons” when families on vacation head to the beach. The first tourist season of the year is derived from the coastal families (March-May) and then second from the mountain folks ( June-August).

Since today was Kai’s last day of  “summer”  and the day was absolutely gorgeous, we had no choice but to go to the beach.  However, with Kai’s newly fractured arm, we went for a walk instead of our usual play in the sand and water.

Aiden and Kai enjoying a stroll along San Clemente’s beautiful beach.

 

The good news of course is that living on the beach in Ecuador means that every day is summer!

Cultural Peculiarities about Babies

We welcomed our son, Aiden Andrew, to the world on August 23. He was born in a wonderful birthing center outside of Quito.

Proud big brother Kai with baby Aiden

 

After a few days of rest, we spent a solid week running around Quito at the Registro Civil, the Ministry of Foreign Relations passport office, and the US Embassy to process all of the paperwork required to establish Aiden’s dual citizenship. As this was our second child born in Ecuador, we navigated the ins and outs of the country’s famously convoluted system of “tramites” with far more grace this round.

Running around with an infant in arms also quickly reminded us of some of Ecuador’s rather fascinating cultural peculiarities regarding babies. I’ve compiled a list of some of these infant-related idiosyncrasies that were surprising to us as new parents, especially coming from a different culture. 

  1. Epidemiology of the Hiccup: There is a common belief that hiccups can be triggered by the baby feeling cold (see #3 below). Hiccups can be “cured” by licking a small scrap of of paper (newspaper, preferably) and sticking it to the middle of the baby’s forehead. **Side note: When looking for information online related to the origin of this practice in Ecuador, I was fascinated to see that this custom is also used to cure hiccups in other parts of the world including multiple countries in Central Africa and throughout Southeast Asia!

    Paper hiccup cure in action, taken from an blog about an expat family living in Burundi.

  2. Baths Required: Vaccinations given at government-sponsored health clinics (called “sub-centros de salud”) are free for children until they are age five. After each of Kai’s vaccinations, I was instructed to immediately bathe him in a warm bath or else he would become feverish. I was a skeptic but did it anyways to avoid any kind backlash as the unfit gringo parent in town. And you know what? The one time I didn’t bathe him after a shot, he did get a fever a few hours later.
  3. The Baby’s Always Cold: During Kai’s first few weeks, we kept receiving commentaries from very concerned “new acquaintances”  that Kai was cold. The cause for concern was obvious once we became aware of the ubiquitous blanket bundles being carried around town, sometimes even on bright, sunny days. Beneath each large blanket is a warmly dressed baby, donning hat and all. Once again, succumbing to peer pressures and with the desire to avoid public derision, we starting bundling Kai while out running errands. That is until he became covered in little red bumps that we discovered was a heat rash. Oops. But even now with Aiden, we still throw a blanket over his head when out and about for both good measure and to prevent public outcry.  We were literally shooed away from the refrigerated section in the Supermaxi grocery by parents who couldn’t believe that we would be even remotely close to a source of cold air.
  4. Growth spurts: All babies spit up. Some apparently more than others (Aiden, for example). I was bracing myself to receive more unsolicited public commentary if and when Aiden upchucks all over me in public. I was pleasantly relieved to learn that there is the common belief that the more a baby spits up, the bigger he/she will be. Thus far, Aiden’s growth supports this theory in that at week six he has morphed into a 12-lb roly poly and we’re constantly laundering blankets, towels, shirts, pants… everything.
  5. “Parece un chichobello!”  Without exaggeration, we heard this phrase daily when Kai was a baby.  Whether in passing from  giggling hordes of delighted women pointing in Kai’s direction or directly to us when introducing him for the first time, at least one person would say that looked like a chichobello.  After receiving this comment dozens of times, I finally asked, “What IS a chichobello?” Turns out it is a life-sized baby doll who is usually fair skinned, bald, with big, blue eyes. When I looked them up online I realized how right they were, baby Kai (and now Aiden) actually look very chichobello-esque.
     
  6. Strange Photography: In relation to #5 above, complete strangers do not hesitate to take photos of other people’s babies. This phenomenon reminded Tom and I of our travels in China about six years ago where there were a couple of bizarre occasions where four or five total strangers actually stood in line to take a photo with us… or snuck up behind us before we noticed while a friend quickly snapped a photo (I believe that would be known as an inverse “photobomb”)  It was very perplexing to us, especially as we wondered what they did with these random photos of strangers. Do they show them to a couple of friends and then delete them from their camera? Or did we stay on their  card and eventually end up in a photo album on someone’s computer? How does that work?? Anyways, the same thoughts occurred to me as Kai’s mug must have been snapped by friendly strangers at least a hundred times before he turned one.
  7. Birth Details: Along the same lines of having different personal boundaries than in other cultures, one of the most common questions I am asked as a new mom was whether the birth was “normal” (i.e. vaginal) or “cesarea” (C-section). I don’t know why people who have never even met me insist on knowing this private detail, except that vaginal births are becoming less common (C-sections now comprise over 30% of births in Ecuador).
  8. Restaurant Service: Another surprise for us was that upon sitting down at restaurants, often one of the staff members would come and take Kai from us to allow us to order and to eat in peace. The first time this happened we were pretty alarmed as we watched Kai get passed back and forth among various cooing restaurant employees. However, we came to quickly appreciate this custom which allowed us the rare opportunity to converse and eat without the usual interruptions. Besides, Kai was clearly okay with  all the loving attention he was receiving. This probably is one of my best examples on the difference between our cultures. In US society, this pseudo “child care” could never take place these days, due to liability, mistrust, etc.  Here, those things don’t even occur to most people. 

    Pizzaria Napoli run by Fiore provides authentic Italian food  in Crucita. Fiore is also the owner of the Alba Suites condos.

  9. First in Line: Another custom that I totally appreciate is how courteous businesses and the public are to the elderly, people with disabilities,  pregnant women and new moms. If you fall within any of these classes, you either have your own special line or are taken to the front of any existing line. Tom and I reduced our wait time by probably 90% at the Registro Civil in Quito (where the frustration level may actually exceed that of most DMVs in the States)  just because I was holding a newborn. I love that! 

    No such thing as a “quick visit” to the Registro Civil” in Quito

  10. Public Breasts: I also love how unapologetic many woman are about nursing openly in public. Sure, you might see more skin by some women wearing their regular day attire, but breastfeeding in public is still a big deal in US culture. Here, it is not uncommon for a woman to be openly feeding a baby in one arm and pushing her shopping cart with the other.  No one seems to notice or get offended and everyone just goes about their business… which is nice.

 

We’ve been surprised at the number of times our perspective has shifted as we begin to see things from another cultural vantage point.  Just as you see two distinct things if you look at a statue from the front versus the back,  a given experience can be interpreted from two different cultural viewpoints.  It’s the same statue, but what you see is completely determined by how you look at it.

For example, when we first arrived in Ecuador we sat at a restaurant, had a meal, and waited patiently for the bill.  And waited.  And waited some more.  Then finally, we hunted down the owner and, mildly flustered, requested the bill, PLEASE.  We saw “Bad Service” from our cultural viewpoint.  Then, after discussing this with an Ecuadorian friend he explained that traditionally if the owner brings you a bill before you’ve requested it, he is being rude and trying to rush you out of the restaurant.  The same experience from the owner’s vantage point was interpreted as “Being courteous and welcoming.”

In other words, things that at first make ZERO sense begin to make more sense the more you hang around.  We’ve learned to be open and enjoy our experiences here by following  a few general guidelines:  “Make fewer assumptions, ask more questions, and be open to the idea that there just might be another, equally valid, cultural viewpoint to an experience or situation.”  It makes for interesting detective work to ask, “Why might that make sense?”

 

Birthing in Ecuador

Birthing has been on our minds of late as we are expecting a second baby boy at the end of August. Our son, Kai, will be turning three in August and was born in Cumbaya, just outside of Quito. We plan to have our second child at the same location.

When we discovered I was pregnant with Kai, I started investigating our birthing options. We felt strongly about him being born in Ecuador so that he would have dual citizenship. We also preferred that, if possible, he be born in a more relaxed and natural setting than most traditional hospitals afford. I discovered that Ecuador has an active La Leche League (LLL) operating out of both Quito and Guayaquil and one of the LLL leaders directed me to several natural birthing centers in Quito. We visited each and interviewed the doctors and decided to go with Clinica La Primavera.

La Primavera birthing center outside of Quito. (Photo taken from this blog.)

 

La Primavera focuses on providing a gentle, “humanized” birth. In other words, they allow the woman to walk around free and choose her own position(s) during labor (including birthing in water, which is how Kai was born). There is no pressure for drugs (unless requested), the doctor does not do routine episiotomies, they don’t take baby away from the parents after birth, etc. And in the case of emergencies, they can do cesaereans and handle most other emergency procedures there at the clinic. If something really, really went awry there is a very reputable hospital less than 5 minutes away called Hospital de los Valles. It was just what we were looking for.  

And the price is $1500 for everything including all doctor’s pre- and post-natal visits, the birth, a birth video, 2 days stay with food for me and Tom after the delivery, and 8 weeks of prenatal classes. It’s funny–our maternity insurance deductible alone is $1500. 

 The birthing center is run by Dr. Diego Alarcon and his wife, Dr. Lulita Ruales. 

It is obvious that Dr. Alarcon loves his work.

Together, they have created a beautiful setting that feels more like a home than a clinic. The birthing rooms have a warm wood decor, stained glass windows, candles, music, fresh flowers, a round birthing tub, labor bed, etc. They offer a video of the birth set to music. They also provide a doula that stays with you during your labor for up to 48 hours so you don’t have someone new every 6-8 hours. They have a studio with exercise balls to help with contractions. Across the street is a quiet park where they recommend couples walk during first stage labor.  Dr. Alarcon is also an artist and the clinic is full of his large, colorful paintings.
I never remember to take photos when I’m there so the following images of the clinic are from a very nice and informative blog post from someone who volunteered at La Primavera.

One of the birthing tubs at the clinic

 
Waiting room

 

Waiting room

Exercise studio overlooking the mountains.

 

We had a wonderful birthing experience there and can’t say enough good things about Dr. Alarcon and his staff.

My mom and her friend, Rita, waiting patiently as I labored (…looks easy, doesn’t it?).

Baby Kai finally arrived after a *long* but beautiful labor experience.

Incidentally, if you are going to have a child in Ecuador and also plan to get your residency, then you have the option of obtaining your visa based on your Ecuadorian child. It’s a much cheaper ($50!) and simpler visa option, as far as the paperwork is concerned. And, it turns out that it may be applied to two bloodlines, meaning that Tom’s parents were able to obtain their residency visas through our son as well!