Ecuador’s New Immigration Law: Snowbirding Just Got Easier

Ecuador’s National Assembly voted unanimously on January 5, 2017 to pass a new immigration law called “La Ley Orgánica de Movilidad Humana.” The law (number 60 of  the 2013-2017 legislative period) has not yet been published in the official registry so we haven’t yet been able to access the full 90 page version. This post will summarize what information we have been able to gather until the law is officially published.

Ecuador National Assembly

Ecuador’s National Assembly passed the new immigration law on January 5, 2017. Photo from El Telegrafo

Some broad-sweeping points of this new law (as translated from the opening arguments from the head of the Committee who helped draft  the new law) are that it will recognize the equality of rights between Ecuadorians and foreigners and emphasizes that no human being can be qualified as illegal in Ecuador because of their migratory status. The new law largely addresses Ecuadorians living abroad, Ecuadorians returning home after living abroad, and refugees, stateless persons, and victims of trafficking.

However, there are also changes that will affect foreign residents in Ecuador, either as tourists or permanent residents.

My in-laws have been enjoying their Ecuadorian residency since 2012.

My in-laws have been enjoying their Ecuadorian residency since 2012.

A notable change that has implications for foreigners is the extension of a tourist visa from the previous 90 days to 180 days. This “tourist visa” is simply the stamp you receive in your passport upon entering the country. This extension for up to 6 months is great news for folks who want to split their time between living in Ecuador and their home country (grandparents, snowbirds, and many others will no doubt celebrate this change!). Previously, acquisition of another visa was required to extend one’s time in Ecuador beyond 90 days (for example a 12-IX visa which is fairly costly and can be time-consuming). There is apparently the option now to also obtain a special tourist visa that would be good for up to 1 year (but which will be limited to using once every 5 years).

And for foreign residents of Ecuador who are excited about exploring other regions of South America, they will now be able to do so as part of the Union of South American Nations (UNASUR) by only presenting their Ecuador ID card (“cédula”) instead of being required to show both their passport and cédula.

Another significant change is that proof of health care insurance will be required for tourists entering Ecuador. It will be interesting to see how this rule is actually enforced and applied; however, this change will NOT apply to foreigners who are permanent residents in Ecuador.

Once we have access to the public record of this new immigration law, we will add the link here.

Information Sources:

Landscaping Your New Home in Ecuador

The year-round warm climate here on the coast makes for great opportunities for creating beautiful tropical gardens. However, there’s not exactly a plant nursery section in a big box store here in this part of Ecuador’s coast. There’s really not even a big box store, with the minor exception of Mi Comisariato at the El Paseo shopping center in Portoviejo. So, where can you buy palms, fruit trees, and flowers for your new home?

The place to go is the small town of Sosote, just outside of Portoviejo. Sosote is better known as the source of tagua jewelry for this part of Ecuador. Here as you pass through the town, bisected by the new four-lane highway to Portoviejo, you’ll see a dozen or more road-side stores selling tagua jewelry in addition to clay pots of all sizes, coconuts and  ropes of blood sausage. I should mention that the latter is not recommended. Poor Tom learned the hard way a few years back and still recoils at even the mention of sausage from Sosote.

In the midst of these numerous roadside establishments, you will to come a row of flowers, fruit trees and palms along with a sign saying “Vivero,” meaning nursery.

Plant nursery in coastal Ecuador

The plant nursery in Sosote offers a tremendous variety of plants for incredibly affordable prices.


Here you can find ornamental plants that you’ll no doubt recognize from back home. The only difference perhaps is the price where most flower varieties run between $0.50-$2.00 each.

sosote nursery (1)

sosote nursery (3)

sosote nursery (4)

sosote nursery (5)


I was treated to some fresh coconut water to sip as I wended by way through the maze of color during my plant shopping spree .

sosote nursery (10)


You will also have many varieties of palms to choose from, from coconuts to sago palms. I bought one of the papyrus plants on the right below for $8.

sosote nursery (2)


And of course fruit trees abound, many already bearing oranges, limes, etc.

sosote nursery (6)


And here’s a mango tree line-up for all you mango fans.

sosote nursery (8)


A final view of the nursery from the road to Portoviejo.

sosote nursery (9)


The nursery also sells large bags of mulch for $5 each and even will come do custom landscape work your property. I loaded up both the back seat and the bed of the truck with 4 bags of soil and LOTS and lots of plants and the bill came to $100. I also bought four large clay pots for $25 each (they wouldn’t budge below that price, even with buying four). So my final cost for the day was $200.

sosote nursery (11)


Ecuador Elections

February 23rd is election day throughout the country (referred to as “Elecciones Seccionales“).

Each of Ecuador’s 24 provinces will hold elections for the following political positions:

  • provincial governors and vice-governors (“prefectos y vice-prefectos”), 
  • mayors (“alcaldes”), 
  • aldermen (“consejales“), and
  • parish boards (“juntas parroquiales“). 


All are elected for 4-year terms without term restrictions.

Ecuador, with a geographic area equivalent to the US state of Colorado, has 24 provinces.


Each province is comprised of cantones (cantons) which are further subdivided into parroquias (parishes) that are classified as either urban or rural.

In our case, we live in the town of San Clemente, which is affiliated with the rural parish of Charapotó, located in the Cantón of Sucre, in the Province of Manabí. The county seat of Sucre is the city of Bahia de Caráquez. The provincial capital of Manabí is the city of Portoviejo.

The coastal province of Manabi is subdivided into 22 cantons.


In Manabí, there are nine candidates running for prefect (and thus nine political parties represented). The current prefect, Mariano Zambrano has been in office since 2005 and is up for re-election. In our canton of Sucre, there are six mayoral candidates, two of which are female.

Here is the breakdown for the number of candidates elected for each political position in the Province of Manabí:

  • 1 Prefect
  • 1 Vice-Prefect
  • 22 Mayors (1 per canton)
  • 100 Aldermen (urban)
  • 36 Aldermen (rural)
  • 53 Parish board presidents
  • 265 Parish board members


There are a LOT of political parties. There are 11 parties with seats in Parliament and 24 non-parliamentary parties. Each political party has a number and color scheme associated with it. For example, President Correa is affiliated with the Alianza PAIS party, with number 35 and its colors are lime green and dark blue.

The name, number and color scheme for President Correa´s political party.


Political campaigning is restricted to a total of 6 weeks (January 7- February 20) and consists of an onslaught of tv and radio commercials, posters and flags on vehicles, homes, and businesses, parades of honking vehicles with blaring music, as well as wide scale painting of public and private walls with candidates’ names and their party numbers. 

Walls are a primary way of political campaigning in Ecuador. This wall is located in San Clemente.


Voting is mandatory for Ecuadorian citizens between the ages of 18 and 65 residing in country. There is a monetary fine for not voting equivalent to 10% of the monthly minimum wage. After placing your vote you receive a “certificado de votación” or voting voucher that you are required to present for most kinds of applications such as opening a bank account, applying for marriage, etc.

Voting is optional for those aged 16 to 18 and over 65, for those serving in active military duty, for illiterate or disabled citizens, and for foreigners with legal residency.

Election results for the prefect and mayoral candidates will be determined the day of the election.

Also noteworthy is the fact that the sale and consumption of alcohol is prohibited 36 hours before the elections and 12 hours afterwards (starting at midnight on Feb 21 and ending at midnight on Feb 24). This law is called the “Ley Seca” or the Dry Law and is a real bummer to unsuspecting tourists and expats! …Sorry, Tom, guess we´ll be celebrating your birthday (Feb 22) this year at home! 

Tagua Jewelry: The Making of Vegetable Ivory Art

A popular source of local jewelry and touristy trinkets is “tagua” (pronounced “TAWG-wuh”) or “vegetable ivory.” Tagua is a very hard, white nut that grows on six species of palm trees in South America, one species of which is found along Ecuador’s coast.

Tagua palm

Cluster of seed pods containing the tagua nuts


Tagua is referred to as vegetable ivory because once dried, it can be carved and closely resembles the ivory from an elephant’s tusks.

Sequence showing how the tagua nut can be carved and dyed into intricate pieces of art. Image taken from an interesting online article about how the production of tagua helps protect elephants and South American rainforests.


Because of its close similarities to ivory, tagua is now often used as a substitute for ivory in the global market, which not only protects elephants from being killed for their valuable tusks, but also provides many jobs as well as an economic incentive to protect the forests where the palms are found.

Items made from tagua can be purchased in markets across Ecuador but the source of this unique artisanry is here along the Central Coast, especially in the small village of Sosote (“so-SO-teh”), outside of Portoviejo.

The art of carving tagua was brought to Sosote in 1993 by two local cousins who had spent several years in the Province of Guayas creating tagua pieces for an Italian man who exported them to Europe. Today, there are over 60 tagua workshops  in the Sosote area.

Below are photos showing the process of transforming the tagua nut into jewelry, which in Sosote usually takes place in a single location; i.e. the workshops are typically located behind the storefront that sells the finished products.

Tagua artisan and owner of one of the tagua storefronts in Sosote


The process begins by collecting nuts from the palms (Phytelephas aequatorialis, which literally means “elephant plant”)


The nuts are polished using a tumbler with metal beads.


A grinder is used to shape the pieces.


Finer details are added using a Dremel.


The pieces are then dyed in large batches.


Now the tagua beads are ready to be turned into jewelry.


Women, often the wives and daughters of the tagua carvers, make necklaces, bracelets, and earrings in the store where they are sold.


A sampling of some tagua necklaces.


Prices for necklaces range from $3-$10.


More necklace designs.


Selections are quite extensive and even include tagua rosaries.


Tagua is also crafted into bracelets, earrings and rings.


Keychains for $1-$2


A variety of other tagua creations that make unique gifts for friends and family.


Tagua art and jewelry-making is an excellent example of how the purchase of local, sustainable products not only supports the creation of jobs but can also make important contributions to society and the environment. Ecuador is full of untapped niches such as these, many that are yet to be discovered.

Boat Ride Tour at the Boca

We work largely in the Portoviejo River Valley which extends along the Ecuador’s central coast from Crucita to San Clemente. The Rio Portoviejo bisects the valley and separates the far northern end of Crucita from San Jacinto at the “Boca,” or the “mouth” of the river as it drains to the ocean.

Satellite image of the Portoviejo River Valley


Although it is only about six miles as the crow flies between Crucita and San Jacinto, it currently takes about 25 minutes in a vehicle because there is no direct, coastal route. Instead travel between the towns is along bumpy, meandering inland farm roads. There are plans in place to build a bridge at the Boca and to improve the beachfront roads of San Jacinto and Crucita starting in the coming year which will reduce the drive time to less than 10 minutes.

The other week we had friends/clients in town for whom Tom is building a house at the Boca. They were interested in hiring a boat to take us upriver to explore the area a bit more. We traveled roughly 4.5 miles upriver and fully enjoyed the peaceful scenery.

Beginning at the Boca, the river is lined with mangroves that are teeming with pelicans and frigate birds. We also saw lots of different wading birds including several kinds of herons and ibises. A few years back, Tom and I even remember seeing a flock of flamingos shrimping at the Boca as well!

Kai standing at the mouth of the river (the “Boca”)


View of the mangroves, home to hundreds to birds, including pelicans, frigate birds and herons.



Perfect setting for peaceful kayaking and bird-watching.


As we traveled further up the river, there were fewer birds but LOTS of giant iguanas hanging out in the trees along the banks. Some of these iguanas were at least 3-4 feet in length (sorry the zoom on our camera didn’t adequately capture the impressive iguana scene)!

Tom and Kai looking for giant iguanas.


Kai enjoying the river ride in the fishing boat.


The mangroves were soon replaced with simple houses as well as farmlands growing corn, onions, peppers, bananas, rice, mangoes, and papayas using pumps to capture river water for irrigation.

Mangroves turn to small homes fringing the river bank, most with plots of farmland.


A few sketchy looking bridges along the way (including one that had long since collapsed).


Lots of coconuts, mangoes, bananas/plantains, and papayas are grown along the river banks.



Many homes along the river have their own simple boats for fishing and river transportation


Kai actually smiled at the camera for this one.


Back to the San Jacinto side of the Boca at the construction site where Tom is currently building a house.


Here is a summary of our track along the river showing the georeferenced locations of where some of the above photos were taken.


We enjoyed our morning on the river and left with a better sense for some untapped tourist activities in this area, including kayak rentals and birdwatching tours. There are still many niches like these  to be filled in Coastal Ecuador.


The Water and Wastewater Scene

Many people have questions regarding potable water and wastewater systems here on the coast of Ecuador so the goal of this post is to share some basic information about how water is managed in a typical residence. Tom and I both received our doctorates in fields related to water quality and water treatment so this topic of particular interest for us.



For starters, residences located within town limits are generally connected to the city water system. For Manta, as well as the small fishing towns where we primarily work (Crucita, San Jacinto and San Clemente), waters from the Rio Portoviejo outside the inland town of Rocafuerte are collected and treated at Manta’s El Ceibal water treatment facility located in Rocafuerte. The treated water is stored in a large (5000 cubic meter) elevated tank and distributed via gravity once or twice a week to Manta and the above-named fishing towns.

The sporadic disbursement of water means that all residences including private homes and condo buildings have below-ground cisterns for water storage. This water is then pumped into the residence via an electric pump.

A typical underground cistern used to store city water (from one of our current listings in San Jacinto).

Typical electric water pump to deliver water to the residence from the below- ground cistern.


Homes that are located beyond city limits and who are not connected to city water receive water on an as-needed basis by calling a water truck (“un tanquero”). A whole “tanquero”-full (approximately 10 cubic meters) costs between $15-40 ($1.50-$4/cubic meter) depending on the location and generally lasts a good couple of weeks, depending on usage requirements, of course.

For a concrete example, the water bill for our house in Crucita amounts to $0.60/cubic meter and when we lived there we averaged about 20-25 cubic meters per month with a washing machine and garden ($12-15/mo plus nominal fees of a couple of bucks for network maintenance). In San Clemente we currently pay $0.80/cubic meter.

Water trucks filling up to deliver water to homes off the “water grid”.


Because this region experiences somewhat frequent power outages (particularly during the rainy season), having an electric water pump translates to not having ready access to water during outages. Aside from having a backup generator to work around this issue, many people opt to build an elevated storage tank. In this situation, the electric pump fills the elevated tank and then water is gravity fed into the home. We have this set up in our Crucita house and it is a godsend during the rare but possible all-day power outage.

You can see our raised water tank (blue tank below where it says “casa crucita”, far right in image). No, it’s not pretty but it sure is functional.


Returning to the notion of “treated” water coming out of water treatment facilities: This water may be referred to locally as potable but it should not be treated as so. Proposed treatment “standards” may be similar to those in developed countries, but whether those standards are enforced routinely and systematically is another question. In other words,  do not drink directly from your tap. That being said, we still use tap water for washing dishes and even for brushing our teeth. Individuals with more leery intestinal flora may wish to proceed with more caution, especially regarding the brushing of teeth.

By far the most common source of potable water are the ever-present blue, five gallon water jugs (called “bidones,” pronounced “BEE-doh-nez”). Once you’ve purchased your bidon (an initial $5 up front payment) you exchange it when empty for ~$1. These jugs are universally available, whether in a small ma and pop shop, or more conveniently, delivered directly to your home from the back of a truck, mototaxi-like contraption, etc.

Delivery of 5 gallon (20 liters) “bidones de agua.” Photo taken from a local news article describing the recent transition from relying on boiled water to bidones for providing potable water.


The trouble is that as the popularity of this source of “potable” water continues to grow, so of course does the competition. We were told that in the province of Manabí alone, there are over 30 different distributors, none of which are held to highly stringent water quality control regulations. Without strict oversight and accountability, it is easy to see how some companies might not adhere to suggested water quality standards. That being said, most expats we know (including us for many years) have relied on bidones as our primary source of drinking water.

Other options are whole-house treatment systems or smaller below-the-counter reverse osmosis systems. However, these systems, because they are still not very common, tend to be very expensive as compared to in the US or elsewhere. When looking into under-the-sink filtration systems last year, prices varied from $500 and upwards, with many of the better models costing around $1500 including install and a 1-year warranty. And, of course, systems requiring electricity are subject to not being available during power outages.

After doing a decent amount of research, Tom and I settled on a simple gravity-fed water filter made by Nikken (Nikken Pi-Mag Aqua Pour). We had seen these systems in several locations around Ecuador, including the birthing center where our son Kai was born. When we learned more about it we decided it was worth the high price tag ($443 although you can catch them on sale on occasion and they are about a $100 or more cheaper if you can buy from the US).

What we like about it is that it has a multiple stage filter system including a 0.2 micron filter for sediments and bacteria (as opposed to the 0.45 micron filters more common on other systems), a layer of activated carbon, a second layer of activated carbon mixed with colloidal silver and then a final layer of zeolyte. Together, this system effectively removes all sediment, bacteria and chemicals, including chlorine. And unlike other effective filter systems, the treated water sits in a container of pebbles which introduce important, essential minerals back into the water.

Our choice in water filters because it is very effective and does not require electricity.


*A side note here: Our bodies require trace amounts of minerals naturally found in water from nature. When we drink lots of water void of these minerals (e.g. water from a reverse osmosis treatment system), the minerals slowly become leached from our bones and can lead to deficiencies, manifesting in conditions such as osteoporosis. That’s why having those pebbles in the Nikken filter is a key element to providing healthy water.

We also like that it does not require energy to operate since the water passes through the filters via gravity. Also, the filters last a year so it is very low maintenance. Actually, when we purchased ours it came with a second set of filters included in the price so we’re set for two years.

We figured we were going through about 5 bidones per week, the equivalent of roughly $260/year so we’ll have paid off our investment before the second year and know we’ll have reliable, good quality drinking water.

If you have any  questions about this filter, especially for how they might be used or needed in Ecuador, feel free to send us an email. Bias alert: We like this product so much and recognize the strong need from them here in Ecuador that we recently became licensed to order and sell any of Nikken’s products here in Ecuador.

And now, onto the wastewater side of things…



More often than not, residences here on the coast are connected to septic systems. Modern wastewater treatment facilities are still a rarity in Ecuador, even in larger cities. As opposed to more managed and regulated septic systems found in the US and elsewhere in the developed world, septics are typically crude and consist of a hole in the ground with brick walls with a cement cover and an open bottom. In our latest two construction projects, we installed biodigesters to amplify water treatment. Unfortunately, these treatment systems are not common yet with local builders and cost more than the simple brick wall approach so they are rarely used.

The biodigestors we have used in the last two homes that we’ve built to provide better wastewater treatment.

Inside of the “self-cleaning” biodigestor.


As with many things in Ecuador, new projects are underway. For example, last year sewage pipes were installed throughout Crucita to connect to a proposed wastewater treatment plant outside of town. The municipality is awaiting another bulk of funding to move forward with the next phase of the project.  Manta is also in the final phase of completing a new potable water  treatment facility in Manta proper. So things are indeed moving forward. In the meantime, with the use of water filters and biodigestors, we can meet our needs for reliable drinking water and/or reducing the impact of our wastewater. Ecuador is not for everyone but for those of us for whom Ecuador is a good match, we totally love this place and see it for all its potential!







Birthing in Ecuador

Birthing has been on our minds of late as we are expecting a second baby boy at the end of August. Our son, Kai, will be turning three in August and was born in Cumbaya, just outside of Quito. We plan to have our second child at the same location.

When we discovered I was pregnant with Kai, I started investigating our birthing options. We felt strongly about him being born in Ecuador so that he would have dual citizenship. We also preferred that, if possible, he be born in a more relaxed and natural setting than most traditional hospitals afford. I discovered that Ecuador has an active La Leche League (LLL) operating out of both Quito and Guayaquil and one of the LLL leaders directed me to several natural birthing centers in Quito. We visited each and interviewed the doctors and decided to go with Clinica La Primavera.

La Primavera birthing center outside of Quito. (Photo taken from this blog.)


La Primavera focuses on providing a gentle, “humanized” birth. In other words, they allow the woman to walk around free and choose her own position(s) during labor (including birthing in water, which is how Kai was born). There is no pressure for drugs (unless requested), the doctor does not do routine episiotomies, they don’t take baby away from the parents after birth, etc. And in the case of emergencies, they can do cesaereans and handle most other emergency procedures there at the clinic. If something really, really went awry there is a very reputable hospital less than 5 minutes away called Hospital de los Valles. It was just what we were looking for.  

And the price is $1500 for everything including all doctor’s pre- and post-natal visits, the birth, a birth video, 2 days stay with food for me and Tom after the delivery, and 8 weeks of prenatal classes. It’s funny–our maternity insurance deductible alone is $1500. 

 The birthing center is run by Dr. Diego Alarcon and his wife, Dr. Lulita Ruales. 

It is obvious that Dr. Alarcon loves his work.

Together, they have created a beautiful setting that feels more like a home than a clinic. The birthing rooms have a warm wood decor, stained glass windows, candles, music, fresh flowers, a round birthing tub, labor bed, etc. They offer a video of the birth set to music. They also provide a doula that stays with you during your labor for up to 48 hours so you don’t have someone new every 6-8 hours. They have a studio with exercise balls to help with contractions. Across the street is a quiet park where they recommend couples walk during first stage labor.  Dr. Alarcon is also an artist and the clinic is full of his large, colorful paintings.
I never remember to take photos when I’m there so the following images of the clinic are from a very nice and informative blog post from someone who volunteered at La Primavera.

One of the birthing tubs at the clinic

Waiting room


Waiting room

Exercise studio overlooking the mountains.


We had a wonderful birthing experience there and can’t say enough good things about Dr. Alarcon and his staff.

My mom and her friend, Rita, waiting patiently as I labored (…looks easy, doesn’t it?).

Baby Kai finally arrived after a *long* but beautiful labor experience.

Incidentally, if you are going to have a child in Ecuador and also plan to get your residency, then you have the option of obtaining your visa based on your Ecuadorian child. It’s a much cheaper ($50!) and simpler visa option, as far as the paperwork is concerned. And, it turns out that it may be applied to two bloodlines, meaning that Tom’s parents were able to obtain their residency visas through our son as well!


Travelogue: Three weeks in the Sierra

Below is a summary of our recent travel experiences in the Ecuadorian Sierra. We spent nearly three weeks traveling in Ecuador’s mountain region with both family and friends in December and January. It started off as a 10 day event in early January with some friends visiting from the US. But then Tom’s brother came in for a visit in December so we decided to do a family trip to Cuenca for Christmas followed by some other sightseeing to show him more of Ecuador.

All of this merged into a 3-week hiatus for us, which to be honest, was a too long for us to be away, especially with a 2 year-old in tow and me in the throes of morning sickness (we discovered I was pregnant with baby #2 on Christmas while in Cuenca). Here’s what we did and where we stayed:


We started by driving from Crucita to Cuenca which we broke into 2 days for our son Kai’s sanity as well as our own. The drive to Guayaquil was roughly four hours after multiple stops/bathroom breaks. The next day was another 5 or so hours with a spectacular drive through Cajas National Park.  Tom’s parents met us in Cuenca and instead of driving, they opted to take the Manta Express to Guayaquil and then from there flew to Cuenca, enjoying their 50% discount on national flights, one of the perks of being a 65+ Ecuadorian resident. In Cuenca, we had enjoyable stay at Hostal Macondo in Old Town. We spent several days there, including over Christmas. The countless Christmas parades which passed through downtown Cuenca made it a very colorful and entertaining place to be.

Cuenca is known for its colorful Christmas parades, often lasting 8 hours or more.


We did the typical Cuenca tourist circuit, starting with a city tour from a double decker bus as a means of getting oriented. We also visited a number of colonial churches, the Pumapungo ruins and gardens, spent lots of time walking the downtown area and along the Rio Tomebamba, enjoyed the plethora of dining options, and spent a luxurious evening at the Piedra de Agua hot springs and spa (ok, Tom and I stayed home with a cranky toddler who refused to go to sleep while the others enjoyed the spa!). We also did a day trip to Chordeleg, known for its silver jewelry. We spent another day in Cajas National Park, a place we’d definitely like to explore more in the future.

Beautiful, rugged, [and cold!] Cajas National Park

Brrrr…Kai has never worn so much clothing! At Tres Cruces pass in Cajas, the westernmost point of the continental divide of South America.


Cuenca certainly lived up to its reputation for being an extremely pretty, clean and well-kept city, far exceeding all other large (and small) cities we’ve encountered thus far in Ecuador.

The Rio Tomebamba, one of Cuenca’s four rivers.


We were particularly fascinated by the posses of highly efficient street cleaners power washing the streets immediately following each parade. Very impressive, especially coming from a small fishing village!  We thoroughly enjoyed Cuenca but the cold, rainy nights and the traffic congestion along the narrow, colonial streets definitely made us appreciative of quiet, warm evenings swinging in hammocks and drinking in the fresh ocean breeze. What can  I say? I enjoy visiting the mountains but love living on the beach!


Next stop: Baños

Tom’s parents decided to keep heading south towards Loja while Tom, his brother Cruce and I made our way north to stay in Baños. Tom and I have been to Baños many times and thought Cruce would enjoy spending a couple of nights there before returning to Quito and then back to the US. We stayed at the popular Hostal Chimenea, a very nice place, especially considering the price: only $8.50 per person for a room with private bath!  From the  terrace where inexpensive breakfast options are served, there are 360 degree views of the town and waterfall.

Hostal Chimenea is definitely a great bargain in Banos.

View of the waterfall from the hotel terrace.


Baños has LOTS to do packed into a small area and we fit in as much as we could including visiting hot springs, getting [another] massage, crossing beautiful gorges via “tarabitas” (cable cars) and ziplines, visiting the St. Martin zoo, hiking up to miradores to get a bird’s eye view of the town, renting one of the silly go carts that plague the streets of Baños and which we discovered during a 3-point turn did not have reverse, visited one of the children’s parks which Kai loved to death, gorged ourselves on the plethora of international dining options which we sorely miss at times in our small beach town, and drank lots of yummy sugar cane juice.

View from our cable car or “tarabita” of a waterfall.

One of many sugar cane stands in Baños selling freshly pressed cane juice and lots of sugary treats.


And of course, we drove our truck up the emergency evacuation road one evening in the hopes of seeing Volcano Tuguarahua doing what it does best. Unfortunately, we had thick cloud cover and didn’t see much but a plume of smoke during one fleeting moment.

Thrill-seekers pay to see the infamous volcano spewing lava at night.



While in Quito we often stay at Posada del Maple Bed and Breakfast which by the way if you mention you learned about them from our website you’ll [*supposedly*] receive a 10% discount on your stay. In Quito we picked up our friends visiting from Duluth, Minnesota.  John is Tom’s mountaineering buddy and this year his wife, Becky and 1.5 year old daughter also made the trip. We spent our first day with them going up the teleferico (gondola) and then we drove to one of my favorite places to splurge in Ecuador: Papallacta.

Riding the gondola (“teleferico”) up to 4050 m (13,290 ft) for spectacular views of the city and surrounding volcanoes.



Papallacta is a small, high altitude village about 2 1/2 hours southeast from Quito and less than 40 miles from the new Quito airport. It is located at an elevation of 3300 meters (nearly 11,000 ft) and is situated along the watershed boundary that separates the Ecuadorian Sierra (or mountainous region) from the Oriente (the eastern, rainforest region). The town has become well-known because of its fabulous hot spring environment. Imagine soaking in a steaming mineral bath surrounded by towering mountains cloaked in cloud forests teeming with orchids and hummingbirds. Um, yeah.

Hot spring heaven at Termas de Papallacta.

Tom and Kai enjoy a pleasant afternoon hike through cloud forest in Papallacta.


There are multiple hotels in town boasting hot spring pools but honestly, if possible, it is worth the $150 splurge to stay at Termas de Papallacta which has lovely guest cabins tucked away in gardens that surround semi-private hot spring baths. The resort has a nice (although overpriced) restaurant and full spa. A one-hour, full body massage is $50.  The resort also has very nice public hot springs with lots of pools of varying temperatures. This is a nice option for folks who want the atmosphere without the price (only $7.50 pp for an all-day admission). If possible, come mid-week when you are likely to nearly have the place to yourself.



From Papallacta we traveled to Cayambe where we stayed at Hacienda Guachala, the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, founded in 1530.

Guachala is the country’s oldest hacienda.


While we appreciated the rich colonial history of the hacienda, we honestly were not impressed by the accommodations (~$80/night) which were dark, very musty and reeked of diesel that is used to polish the wood floors )which also stain your socks black). This site was a stopping point for us as it served as the base camp to prep for Tom and John’s climb of Volcan Cayambe (elevation 5790 m or 19,000 ft).

Cayambe is the third highest mountain in Ecuador.



While the guys were schlepping up nearly 7000 ft of vertical gain in ice and snow during a horrible windstorm, Becky, the kids and I visited tranquil Mindo. Mindo is a small town of ~3000 residents located in the Andean foothills, about 2 1/2 hours west of Quito. We stayed at Dragonfly Inn which was clean, comfortable and an excellent value ($27 single, $46 double). Kai loved watching the dozens of hummingbirds that swarmed the feeders all day long.

Mindo is a birdwatcher’s paradise with over 450 species, many of which are rare and/or endangered.


We also visited the El Quetzal chocolate factory where we participated in a “bean-to-bar” tour to learn about the artisanal process of chocolate-making ($5 pp). These daily tours (usually at 4pm) of course conclude with a sampling of a variety of chocolates, including ginger and spicy chili pepper. Yum. They also serve several homemade microbrews, including a chocolate stout.

Kai sampling chocolate at the El Quetzal Chocolate Factory.


Following our chocolate tour, we checked out Mindo’s famous “frog concert” which takes places nightly at the Mindo Lago Lodge at 6:30pm ($4.50 pp). The “show” is a guided night walk around a restored wetland ecosystem that is brimming with different frog species, as well as other interesting flora and fauna. Kai loved trekking through the forest in the dark, lighting up frogs, crickets, and spiders (and unappreciative tourists) with his flashlight beam. Definitely bring your own flashlight  as several people in our tour grumbled about not being able to see where they were walking.

The following day we went to the Butterfly Garden where we watched butterflies hatching from their cocoons, fed butterflies from our fingertips. and enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere of the garden where hundreds of butterflies flit from orchid to orchid.

Mindo’s butterfly garden is definitely a must for visiting Mindo.


Quisato (the “Real” Mitad del Mundo)

The guys came down from the mountain and somehow had the energy to offer to pick us up in Mindo. Our next stop was to be Otavalo but we made a brief stop at Quisato, a monument with an impressive sundial located exactly on the equator  in Cayambe. This site should not be confused with the much more celebrated (yet less accurate) “Mitad del Mundo” national landmark outside of Quito.

Quisato is a more accurate “Mitad del Mundo” than that of the more popular site outside of Quito.


Otavalo and Volcan Antisana

We arrived to Otavalo on a Thursday afternoon so that Tom and John could prep for another mountain; this time their target was Volcan Antisana, Ecuador’s fourth highest mountain at 5700 m (18, 700 ft). They left Friday afternoon to set up camp to start their arduous climb at midnight to take advantage of the snow staying hard before they descended the following morning to camp.

Tom and John on the summit of Volcan Antisana, the fourth highest mountain in Ecuador.

View of Volcan Cotopaxi from the summit of Antisana.

Resting after a challenging 8 hour ascent and descent


Again, while the guys were hard at work, Becky, the kids and I were enjoying the peaceful environment of our mountainside hostal, La Luna. This affordable hostal ($21 pp) is on the outskirts of Otavalo, away from the noise and crowds and with beautiful vistas of the surrounding countryside, including Volcanoes Imbabura and Cotacachi.  La Luna has a wonderful family-oriented atmosphere with a good (albeit simple) restaurant, an organic garden (and thus tasty, fresh salads), hammocks, board games, movies,  and large, very charismatic dogs.

View of the main guest house of La Luna, a wonderful place to stay when visiting the market in Otavalo.

View of Volcan Cotacachi from our hotel in Otavalo.


On Saturday morning, Becky and I went to Otavalo’s open air market, one of the largest in South America. Here you’ll find an inordinate and mind-numbing collection of trinkets, textiles, paintings, ceramics, woodwork, etc. etc. from all over the country. Saturdays are the busiest days, followed by Wednesdays but the market itself is open daily. Try to arrive early (before 9am) before all the tourist buses arrive and the prices go up. As in all Latin American markets, the vendors expect you to bargain and name their initial prices accordingly.

The Otavalo market is an almost dizzying experience that saturates all five senses.

Many Otavaleños have maintained much of their indigenous culture, including their native dress.

Kai and I peruse the colorful handicrafts in Otavalo.


The following day we visited Lagunas de Mojanda, three beautiful alpine lakes surrounded by volcanoes. Here we hung out and tried our luck with fishing from a hand reel.

Prepping the fishing line using freshly caught grubs.

No luck with the fishing but we had a nice time nonetheless.


Well, that concludes our travelogue. We had a great time sharing this beautiful country with friends and family but were nevertheless very glad to get home to peel off the layers of winter wear and to jump into the warm ocean!

Even though Ecuador is a small country (smaller than the state of Nevada!) it nevertheless seems so immense because of the richness and diversity of wonderful places to visit.

Ecuador’s New (and Old) Solutions for Trash Management

Trash on many of Ecuador’s beaches can be an unsightly issue, one which thankfully is being resolved to a large degree through a national-scale plastics recycling program that was implemented just one year ago. In fact, Ecuador was listed in the Guinness Book of World Records for collecting  1.5 million plastic bottles in less than fifteen days!  Here is an article from April 24, 2013 about the successes of the newly created recycling program (Google should provide the option at the top of the page to translate the article to English).

Thank goodness for the new plastics recycling program to help keep plastics off the beaches in Ecuador.


Recycling here is not as organized as what people might be used to in their home country with specific bins that are collected separately from household trash. Here, the trash collectors rip open every bag of trash and separate the plastics while in transit between houses. Once we discovered this, we began to put our plastics in a separate bag to save them the trouble and mess. Here along this stretch of the coast, trash is collected by the municipality 2-3 times per week (depending on the location). Entrepreneurial types now also drive by in trucks and pay people by the kilo for their plastics.

The same goes for aluminum and steel. Multiple times per week you might hear a fellow in a truck, driving up and down the road, honking and yelling “chatarra, chatarra” which basically translates to “metal junk [plus old batteries].” They’ll buy steel cans, empty paint containers, old  appliances, you name it. The price isn’t too bad either (we received a dollar for a couple of old paint cans and an old fan the other day) so it motivates people to collect what they can find laying around to sell it as a supplemental source of income. Instead of being recycled per se, these scrap items are typically reworked into new products, a more direct and efficient use of the metals.

House-to-house collection and payment for metal junk or “chatarra” is Ecuador’s current solution to metals recycling.


Up until the last 10 years or less, plastic bottles were a rarity in Ecuador (and Latin America). Instead people purchased their sodas out of returnable glass bottles, just like back in the US up until the 1960s or 1970s. It’s interesting to note how the culture of plastic is more or less just arriving to Ecuador while in other countries, like the US, there is a subtle, but noticeable shift away from plastics and back towards glass due to human safety and environmental concerns.

Beer in Ecuador is still predominantly sold off the back of trucks by the “jaba” (pronounced “hah-bah”). Jabas are the sturdy plastic containers that hold twelve 22 oz glass beer bottles.

Pilsener, Ecuador’s national beer, can be bought for about $0.67 per  22 ouncer off the back of the beer truck.


Once you’ve emptied your jaba you take it back to the store where the owner will take your empties and replace your jaba with full bottles, usually priced at roughly a dollar per beer. Or if you catch the beer truck a full jaba will usually cost you about $8-$9. Note: Hang tight to your jaba because these cases alone will cost you $7 (or more) to replace. The national beer of Ecuador is Pilsener, although Brahma and Budwieser are becoming more common.

Sadly, more and more people are looking to the US-culture of drinking beer from a 12-oz glass container and these smaller-sized bottles are beginning to become popular among more elite Ecuadorians. Unfortunately, these smaller bottles are neither returnable nor recyclable (as of yet) and often the emptied bottles are abandoned haphazardly on the side of the street or on the beach by the unconcerned party-goers. Grrr..I hate that!

Without any monetary value associated with them, smaller beer bottles just get dumped.


Ecuador’s new recycling program for plastics might one day create the catalyst for an eventual glass recycling program. Like I mentioned in the previous blog post, it truly is fun to watch all the shifts that Ecuador has been making in a relatively short period of time.

I will end this post with an photo ode to the “22 ounce Pilsener and ceviche on the beach” experience. Come down and try it for yourself!

Nothing quite like enjoying a cold beer and a ceviche on the beach.



Ecuador’s Potential Continues to Grow… and Grow

It has been truly amazing to watch all the changes that have taken place in Ecuador since Tom and I first set foot here in 2005 to visit the Galapagos. We returned the following year for a water quality sampling expedition in the highlands which ended with a very spontaneous decision to purchase what would later become our home in Crucita.

Most notably, the changes we have witnessed here have involved major infrastructural improvements such as roads and bridges. For example, the highway connecting Crucita to the major city of Portoviejo was a dusty two-land washboard road, full of enormous potholes and a nightmare to drive at night. Today, it is a smooth (relatively speaking) four-lane highway with a median containing large street lamps.

The bridge connecting Bahia to San Vicente was another enormous project that has vastly improved access to growing towns such as Canoa. We remember the days when we would cross the bay by passenger ferry for 10 cents (which is still an option for crossing if you don’t have a vehicle–you can catch a taxi or mototaxi to your final destination on the other side).

Crossing the bay in 2009 with my father-in-law, Wally, on his first visit to Ecuador. Tom’s folks have since moved here as full-time residents.


Sometimes, if traveling with friends with a vehicle (this was before we could even dream of being able to afford our own vehicle!) we would have to wait, sometimes for a couple of hours, to get on the car ferry that transported vehicles to one side of the bay to the other.

The car ferry used to transport cars between Bahia and San Vicente.


Actually, we have rather fond memories from those days since we would use the wait time to hang out with friends, shop for tagua jewelry, and try exotic foods served by street vendors on the San Vicente side (avoid the grilled cow udder, by the way).

More large projects along the coast are in the works and are slated to begin sometime in the next year, including a marina on the far southern end of Crucita that will undoubtedly result in elevated tourism to the area (as well as real estate prices).

Rendering of the marina that is scheduled to be constructed at the southern end of Crucita


There are also plans (which are still very much under discussion as to the actual routes involved) for the creation of a major highway connect Bahia to Manta in less than 50 minutes, allowing faster access to Manta’s airport, which *one day* will receive direct international passenger flights. The new coastal highway will also include a much-needed bridge between Crucita and San Jacinto/San Clemente (get oriented to this region with our Maps page).

So the times, they are certainly a-changing.

And then the other day, my brother sends me a link to a CNET news article entitled, “Plotting the Next Silicon Valley–You’ll Never Guess Where.”

Rendering of the planned “City of Knowledge.”


This news story, dated March 26, 2013, is part 1 of a four-part series about the creation of  “Yachay, a planned ‘City of Knowledge’  that the Correa administration hopes will one day compete and collaborate with Silicon Valley, South Korea, Japan, and the other great innovation centers of the world.” It is a controversial project with many critics and naysayers but the simple fact that it is actually in progress is amazing.

Here are links to all four parts of this story:

Part 1: Plotting the Next Silicon Valley–You’ll Never Guess Where

Part 2:  New Silicon Valley in the Andes: Promise and Paradox

Part 3:  Riding shotgun with the man behind an Andean Silicon Valley

Part 4: An Ecuadorian Silicon Valley: Pipeliine to the future or pipe dream?


We have enjoyed watching Ecuador’s projects come into fruition, especially those thought never to be possible. Who knows where this latter project will end up but it will be fascinating to watch how it unfolds over the coming years. The undoubted question is that Ecuador is determined to keeping progressing.